Semana Santa Processions: Santo Entierro

This past Semana Santa [Holy Week] we attended the procession of Christ in the Tomb or Santo Entierro. It requires over 1500 townspeople who carry santos and other religious objects through the cobblestone streets. This sacred event takes over two hours and is a silent walk with men and women dressed in black. It starts with men who carry huge woven baskets of chamomile flowers that they spread along the path of the procession. A single drumbeat starts this march from the Oratorio Church with the crucified Christ carried on the shoulders of men. We shot this video in Easter Week of 2009 and in part one you see the Roman soldiers led by a remarkable actor whose measured steps are accompanied by a haunting flute that brings the crowd to complete silence. Precious young girls in white carry small santos of angels as well as objects symbolizing the crucifixion such as a cock, the rope and chain, spear, cross, ladder, spone, robe of Christ and a pitcher with bowl. This is followed by large angels carried by mourning women dressed in black. The santero carver is Don Genero Almanza and the expressions on the faces of these angels create great emotion in the viewer.




As the procession continues each angel carries a religious object such as the crown of thorns, the whip or a golden chalice. On both sides of the procession are men and women holding approximately 500 faroles or candle holders. When the angels have passed you see a golden canopy draped over the tomb of Christ. It weighs one ton and is carried by 36 men at a time who trade off with other groups of men with precision exchanges. The figure of Christ was carved by santero maker Salvador Vargas Sandoval and it is followed by a children's choir and priests. The song they sing is called Cristus Factus Est and was written by José Corea one hundred years ago. As darkness fills the streets the faroles burn brightly and the figure of the Virgen de la Soledad in her long black velvet cape appears. She holds a lace hankerchief with crystal tears on her cheeks. This particular statue was imported from Europe in the 19th century but Guadalupe Hernandez created her stunning ensemble. The final santos are of Saint John, Mary Magdalene, Mary Clophus, Joseph of Arinathea and Nicodemus. The smell of fresh flowers and herbs fill the air and the tomb of Christ goes up the hill to the Oratorio where it began.
It is difficult to describe the emotion you feel when watching this procession as people are silent and the magnificent backdrop of brightly colored 16th and 17th century buildings transports you to another time. I've always found it fascinating that even nature cooperates as the jacaranda trees and wildflowers bloom precisely at this time dotting the hillsides and streets with the rich purple hues of Semana Santa.

An excellent book to purchase with detailed writing on all the Holy week events in San Miguel and incredible photos is called Tears from the Crown of Thorns by Charlotte Bell. In her book she calls Mexico a barely discovered jewel with its intriguing and complicated culture, rich history and enormous natural beauty.